This is a climb few have attempted. It is a 200 foot dolerite column that rises straight up from the ocean on the Tasman Peninsula. This rock was first climbed in 1968 by John Ewbank and Allan Keller as an aid climb. Their route was up the mainland side of the pillar.
The first free ascent up the Totem Pole was in 1995. Steve Monks and Simon Mentz accomplished this on the opposite side of the rock and called their route The Free Route. They gave it a grade of 24 (Australian), roughly equivalent to a grade of 5.12b.
In January of this year (2009), Tasmanian climbers Doug McConnell and Dean Rollins made a free climb of the original aid route on the mainland side. They assigned the route the Australian grade of 27, roughly 5.12d.
The pillar can only be reached via a two-hour approach hike, followed by a 190-foot rappel to the base of the pillar. From the bottom of the rappel, you must swing out towards the pillar and attempt to snare a hanger-less bolt head with a stopper, and pull yourself onto the belay ledge. Here you are sprayed by sea water and wind until you climb out of reach of the waves. From the top, a Tyrolean traverse on your original rappel rope leads you back to the mainland.
Photos by Simon Carter, who was present for the January free ascent, can be found here.
Eichorn Pinnacle is a nice 5.4 (easiest) ascent found in Tuolumne Meadows, CA. It can be reached via the Cathedral Lakes trail from Tuolumne Meadows. This climb is only accessible from generally from May to October, when Hwy 120 is open.
There are quite a few ways up the Eichorn, all difficult with the easiest ascent being a 5.4 rating. Cathedral Peak is easily accessible right nearby as well.
Ice Climbing
According to the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA), “Ice Climbing
is an activity of climbing through ice structures or formations. These ice formations may be
in the form of frozen waterfalls, ice falls, ice slabs or rocks covered with frozen water
flow or ice, or they may be artificial structures covered with ice. Ice climbing is a crucial
part of any mountaineering activity or training. What makes Ice Climbing appealing is the
interaction with the ice which means routes constantly change due to the characteristics of
the natural element. These features make it a unique adrenaline driven action sport.”
Ice climbing is a special sort of experience. It is not for the feint of heart. It is cold
and dangerous. Be sure you research the techniques and equipment before you try this and then
get expert instruction when you start.
The South Fork of the Shoshone River is a beautiful mountain valley near the town of Cody in
northwest Wyoming. Hundreds of waterfalls freeze there every winter to offer one of the
highest concentrations of waterfall ice climbing in the continental US.
There is a man made ice park in Ouray, Colorado. Only a short walk from town, the Ouray Ice
Park offers climbs for all ability levels, including an area for kids. Local guides are
available to teach you the skills you need. Ice Climbing season in Ouray runs from December-
March.
There are many ice climbing opportunities in Alaska-
and Ice climbs and schools in the Catskills, N.Y.
